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The rear discs had become very corroded, new pads would not bed in and the general braking performance of the car poor, the handbrake almost useless. So following the procedure on changing the rear pads I unbolted the caliper and tied it up safely out of the way. The pads were removed, it will need new ones with a new disc. Discs and pads should be always changed as an axel pair, i.e. if you do one side the other should be done as well.
An impact driver with the correct bit will remove the countersunk screws which hold the disc.
There are two threaded holes in the disc. You'll need to find one or preferably two 8 mm bolts. These are screwed in a little at a time in on each side, this forces the disc off the hub. If the contact surface has corroded it may need tapping with a mallet around the circumference to break the joint.
Looking at the old discs its not hard to see how bad they were. New pads had been fitted about 4 thousand miles previously but had never bedded in. Notice how little contact area there is - no wonder the brakes on the car were poor.
After cleaning the mating surface with the hub (any rust/dirt here could cause the disc to "run out") the new disc and pads were fitted.
Just repeat the process for the other side now and the job is completed. To: Brake pad renew
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