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This photofix assumes you can solder, it is outside the scope of my page to guide anyone who can't and wants to learn use this link http://tinyurl.com/5x6qe9 (or Google "how to solder" for more info).

Links at the bottom of this page to description of operation and wiring diagram.

The electric windows would open but would not close from the driver's door switch pack.

Often this is due to bad solder joints in the under-dash fuse box, the repair for this is here suspect this if there are also other interior electrical faults. However this had been done and the fault was still present. After checking the connections to the window ecu (under the front left hand seat) suspicion fell on the door switch pack itself.

It should be noted that this is for the Coupe two window lift control. Four door models are similar but have four switches, the circuit board appears identical apart for the extra components and switches to control the rear windows.

The pack can be carefully levered out of the door with a small flat-bladed screw driver. Remove and unplug the electrical connector.

This little button needs to be levered off.

These four spring clips need to be removed, then slightly spread the sides of the main "box" to release the back plate, then the circuit board.

 
The switches are actually the silver triangular part on the circuit board, which has a transparent plastic film over it. (I call it a bubble switch, no doubt someone will come up with the correct term). The top plastic rocker bit just operates them. To remove the top part, the melted fixing pins for each switch on the reverse of the circuit board need to be cut off.
 

To get better access to the soldered joints for inspection and repair, I stripped the circuit board except for the mirror controls, connection pins, diode and resistor. Under the optical diffuser that illuminates the switch there were some bad solder joints which I cleaned up and re soldered.

The rest of the joints were then resoldered to make sure they were OK. Then the circuit board was turned over and all the joints on that side checked/soldered.

Reverse side

Reassembly is the usual reverse of taking it to bits, the switch rockers can be held in place with a small blob of super glue instead of the original plastic pins which had to be cut off when the rockers were removed.

I'm guessing this fault originated through a combination of poor original soldering and the switch pack getting wet from time to time when the window has been open in the rain. Moisture would then set off a slow corrosion process in the solder joints.

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Description of system
Wiring diagram

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